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Thank you for the video. Good diagnosis.

always always always check the most simple less first ive learned the hard way

At 4:19, the rubber hose you see I know connects to the bottom of the air filter housing but where is it coming from and is it the crank case vent hose? Mine is putting oil in the carb.

Would that clunking sound happen if you take a left turn? Because that’s what’s happening to me

This video is proof that we are our own worst enemy sometimes. I did exactly the same things Wes did to his Kohler.....then I put in a pair of new NGK plugs (brand name stuff) like he suggested and I wanted to kick myself in the behind. It ran like it was new. It had 25 horses again. Dammit man. Thank you Wes. This video should come up first when looking in to a crap running Kohler. The old plugs were just replaced last fall just like what Wes describes. They failed that fast.

I still have my extended warranty, i wonder if that is covered? I know When i call they will say they can't tell me until it gets in there so they can properly diagnose if that is the problem 😤. Because i had another problem i asked and thats what they told me.

2022 xlt does the same exact thing but I didn’t want to hassle with dealership because like you said it’s only on uneven surfaces and they’d probably give me the run around because they couldn’t hear anything. I figured it was something like this I’ll try it. Thanks! Did it resolve it?

so show us a video of you fixing it!! how did you get that lower ball joint out?

FYI. The PLATINUM version plug is Champion RC12PYC/ 3071 and usually stocked at O'Reilly's.

Had the exact same issue. Just replaced the sparks which seem to have resolved the issue. Thanks for uploading!

Im currently running 20x14 wheels with 35s on my 09. Talk about an aggressive looking truck. I get compliments everywhere I go. Before the 20x14s i had 35s on the stock pw megs with 2in spacers. I really liked that look as well. I also have an old school 3in dual roll bars in bed with offroad lights. The roll bar and 14in wide wheels change the look of the 3rd gen drastically... Next is hopefully a supercharger or cam.

Very good video. Very helpful!

I had this same issue. The mower would run if I took a jumper wire straight from the battery to the solenoid. Ended up replacing the ignition switch. That worked for a few months, then it happened again. Another ignition switch. Probably a short somewhere for me.

Sir, Just a quick question - Did you replace all the parts with OEM or a third party company ? If yes, which company parts did you replace it with ? Thank you.

I recently inherited a 2016 Ford Explorer with only 47,000 miles, and The First thing I noticed was the HVAC Actuator didn't operate, and it was Stuck in the Dash position! I have full records and there were 11 Recalls by Ford on this year and type of Ford, and thankfully they were already taken care of! From people that I have talked with, this Problem Seems to be Common Place, and Ford "Should" have issued a Recall on this issue too! Quality Has Definitely Suffered Greatly, concidering the Astronomical Price of Vehicles in today's day and age! Great Video! Thanks! 👍

I’m in the same boat. Just replaced the ball joints not too long ago. Maybe 7k miles. Had plenty of other issues but the only thing left to figure out this elusive knocking is inner tie rods & wheel bearing on the noisy side. Everything else in the front end is less than a year & a half old. 🙄. Guess I’ll check the ball joint again. I’ve even quit going cheap because of these kinds of problems

Thanks for the helpful video.

Hi sir, I am having cracking noise while getting down from speedbrakers from front wheels of my honda city 4th gen 2018 model. Cracking sound pattern which i observed while getting down from speed breaker as below: 1) when I press my clutch free the car then sound can be easily audible 2) when I dont press the clutch then sound is barely audible. 3) When I keep car in bit acceleration then I dint hear any sound as off now. I took car to mechanic and he said it is due to Suspension or may be due to some bushes.. Then we decided to change the suspension and below parts we replaced. 1. Front shockup refill. 2. Shocker mounts 3. Front strut kit 4. Strut wati 5. Link Rod 6. Balance rod bush. 7. Steering rack repair with bush. Also as per mechanic there is not issue in lower arm and its ball joint or bush. All above parts are original from honda. Dispite of changing entire suspense system and other things, still cracking sound is there... Pls help me to identify from where it is coming... Thanks in advance..

I appreciate the detail you went into on this video. I was hoping that this repair would fall into something I could do, and I probably could after replacing some of the trim part that I would’ve broken. Thanks for sharing your frustration and letting me know it’s time to “pay the man” to get this job done for me.

Real stuff. Great video.

hearing this on my focus mk2.5 but couldn't figure out from where does it come from.. I will check this for sure! ❤

Why are your bottom ball joint castellated nut split-pins not engaging with your castellations...? Either a washer is missing or... are the joints the right ones - and this explains why they have failed so soon?

Unfortunately changing the plugs didn’t work for me. Only thing left is to change the carb.

did you ever try them to see if they cut straight maybe they did it like that on purpose and they straightened out with centrifugal force

Do a video on rear end clunking

I bought my ball joints from Kmart auto

I did that and the wheel broke off

Fellow Ur steps work perfectly Save me a lot of times Thank you! 👍

Was it cranking and would not stay running

So did fixing the lower ball joint solve the issue? I have a similar sound on my Subaru ascent and I’m guessing that could be the same issue.

Thanks for the video. I changed my plugs my issue went away.

When you turn the key could you get the fuel solenoid to actuate at all? Like did you hear the click? I just wondered if it would still click at that low voltage but not fully retract like it's supposed to.....

The spark gap looks awful.

I was about to pay my dealer to pick mine up and go thru the whole expensive maintenance package and watched this--SUCCESS!! Many thanks!!!

After totally restoring a Cub Cadet RZT 50 to almost brand new condition, I had the spit-sputtering issue start yesterday. Rebuilt the carb a few years back and put new plugs in last season. So, I’m going to replace the plugs now, but I’m wondering how many people have thought about the magneto (or called ignition coil)? It’s where the energy comes from to cause the plugs to spark. What if the mag(s) are weak and produce less than optimal energy to the plug(s)? Wouldn’t that cause a break down of the plugs over a shorter amount of time. I’m wondering how do you test the amount of energy that supposed to arrive at the plug wire connector, as well as what should that be at the plug end? Lastly, there are a lot of comments about the gap of the plugs in this persons video. Please watch the video again, he says that he pulled the ends outward in order to test the plugs….

Man, thank-you for this reminder that we all seem to look over all too often. After your video, it all came home to me. Kawasaki 2 cyl engine, 1 cylinder and plug is good, and the other plug has misfire. That's why it starts fine, and when more gas is sent, the misfire comes to life. Mine started just after I added some gas to the mower so I started chasing all things fuel, filter, pump, drained gas, etc. Great video, back up and going.

That's exactly what my car does omggg Is that the sway bar?

Would this cause a rolling rumble feel through the gas pedal when doing about 60

Its always the damn drivers side balljoint!!!

If I'm going slow and tap on the breaks I get a clunking sound and when I go over a bump or pot hole I get a clunk, but at road speed it doesn't seem to make noise. What should I check? Sounds like just driver side

My 2016 Ford Explorer Limited has been nothing but problems. Before it hit 93,000 miles I had to change both catalytic converters, rebuild transmission, three of the six coil packs and various other items. Now this actuator thing went out. The part is cheap but getting to it Absolutely sucks. I’m done with Ford. Very unimpressed, and I am from Michigan. Thank you for the video! You did a great job, and it helped me tremendously!

Thank you! Super helpful.

Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome video! I used your vid to fix my 2016 Explorer! I don't think the video said, so in case it can help anyone, the screws that hold in the actuator are 8mm.

THANK YOU!! I was able to do this thanks to you. One thing I would suggest is to move your steering wheel all the way out (I think) because the screw that moves it was in my way. And moves the brake pedals all the way in. Also using the gear from the old actuator is key to align the doors to get the new one installed. Thank yo for making this video, this is a slow tricky job, but you made it much easier. Thank you!!!

Just a tip it’s way easier if you remove the steering column

Yes you’ve helped me. And also how did you change your sync 2 wallpaper?

This is probably my vehicle's issue, as any little bump makes my car rattle and shake.

I don’t know what you people do. At 73 and I drive my cars/trucks over 200k and never have to replace suspension parts.

You had it disassembled why not change it out. Wasted time. Part only cost few dollars. I can see if the part cost hundred or thousands of dollars.

Great video